Fashion
Paloma Elsesser: The model who overcame otherness
For years, to be on the cover of Vogue, you had to look a certain way: white, tall, and above all, skinny. When the magazine placed beloved black media mogul Oprah Winfrey on the cover in October 1998, editor-in-chief Anna Wintour reportedly suggested that Winfrey shed 20 pounds before the shoot.
And it wasn’t just Vogue. Elsesser, the curvaceous London daughter of an African-American mother and a Swiss-Chilean father, will not soon forget the incident in Paris that brought her to tears.
In 2015, Elsesser, 22, was in town with makeup artist Pat McGrath, who hired Elsesser to promote her first eyeshadow. Once the model was behind the scenes of Lanvin. A self-proclaimed tomboy at Supreme, she’s never been to a show in Paris before, and her first time faded when she saw the cast: mostly white, all skinny. Elseser is beautiful, with warm brown eyes and a beaming smile. But, crushed by the weight of her otherness, she began to cry.
“I shouldn’t be here. I don’t look like anyone here,” he recalls. “Who am I kidding? I’m not a fucking model.”
How things have changed. Today, Elsesser is one of the most sought-after muses of fashion. Now 30, she has walked the catwalks of European luxury brands from Fendi to Chloé, including four shows for Lanvin, and has appeared in major campaigns for Marc Jacobs, Coach and H&M. Even Victoria’s Secret, once infamous for its one-dimensional beauty standards, hired Elsesser.
As society changes and fashion emerges “from the dark ages” where older models fought for jobs and equal pay, demand for plus size women is on the rise, says Next Models agent Becky Thorpe. These are the fees they may require. “Clients pay as much or even more than they pay for traditional models to gain access to (bigger models),” adds Casting Partner Casting Director Trianna Lawrence.
Australian Fashion Week presents its first plus size show
Plus size models, usually defined above size 4 in fashion and above size 12 in the mass market, are a lucrative business. “Once the agencies saw that a girl like Paloma had a real path to success, they started signing more contracts,” says stylist Carlos Nazario. “And when brands saw the engagement and attention they were getting on the runway and in ad campaigns, they wanted a piece of the pie too.”
But Elsesser’s elevation was not passed on to her. If he was a beneficiary of wider social currents, he was also a catalyst, driving and opening up space for others. “I think a lot of her work in the modeling business is against the industry,” says Samuel Ellis Scheinman of DM Casting.
the face of change
Elsesser appeared on the scene at a time of political upheaval. A smoldering culture war has begun to flare up in the United States after Donald Trump became president and George Floyd was killed by police, adding fuel to the Black Lives Matter fire. Simultaneously, there were broader calls for “body positivity”, a movement for greater acceptance of all bodies, regardless of size, shape, color, gender, and ability.
Fashion has changed along with society. In 2017, British Vogue hired black stylist and journalist Edward Enniful as its editor-in-chief. In 2018, Louis Vuitton hired African-American designer Virgil Abloh as artistic director of the menswear department. Fashion shows and magazines began to feature a wider range of characters. “The industry in 2017, 2018, 2019 started offering a counteroffer to the American political system of the time,” Sheinman says. “I think we’re starting to see that there has to be a radical message in casting.” It didn’t hurt that it was good marketing.
In 2016, despite being hired to spearhead the launch of Pat McGrath’s cosmetics company, Elsesser was still struggling to find runway work for major fashion brands. The following year, things began to improve after she began working with art labels such as Eckhaus Latta. In 2018, she, along with Bella and Gigi Hadid, participated in the launch of Rihanna’s Fenty x Savage lingerie line. But it wasn’t until the spring of 2020 that she signed with luxury brands such as Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Fendi.
That season was a turning point for plus size casting. A week after Fendi first brought plus-size models to the catwalk, Jill Kortlev became the first plus-size woman to walk the Chanel show since Crystal Renn 10 years ago. From the end of 2018 to the beginning of 2022, the number of brands choosing plus-size models for their shows has skyrocketed by 374%, according to data provided by Tagwalk, a company that tracks runway trends.
The change has been a boon for Defendant Elsesser, whose runway presence has grown by more than 830% in the same period, Tagvolk said. Over the past two seasons, she has walked more couture shows than any other plus-size model in the world.
Tattoo artist creating body-positive “twisted flowers”
From “poor hippie” to the main muse
Often the best models break out of obscurity, their lives changing overnight. According to Scheinman, Elsesser’s rise was “more organic”. She started modeling late at the age of 22 with the encouragement of her friend Stevie Dance, a former fashion editor for Pop magazine.
“The call was not that I was going to change the industry,” says Elsesser. She was working as a waitress at the time and needed money. paid $500 for one day, it’s amazing.” She didn’t see many models like her, but she reasoned, “If I don’t exist, maybe I should.”
Elsesser was born in London but grew up in a “poor hippie” family in Los Angeles. His mother once claimed government benefits to buy groceries but shopped at a local health food store. She also valued intellectual curiosity, and as a child, Elsesser accompanied her to the Bodhi Tree bookstore in West Hollywood. “I remember I was in the sixth grade and brought a stack of books to my mother; one of them was written by Anais Nin, an erotic poet,” recalls Elsesser. “She said, ‘Yes, add to cart.’
Not that the figures were remotely impressive and it’s clear that UK retail sales a tough sector to operate in.
Looking at the headline sector-wide figures, retail sales volumes are estimated to have risen by 0.4% month on month, only partially recovering from a fall of 1.1% in July 2023.
That said, volumes were down 1.4% compared to a year earlier and down 1.5% compared with February 2020, the benchmark point that was the last full month before the pandemic started.
By value, sales rose 0.8%, compared to the previous month and 3.8% compared to the previous year. That’s not brilliant news given that inflation has been running at a much higher level, but values were at least up 17.3% compared to February 2020.
retail sales
Food store stores sales volumes rose by 1.2% month on month in August 2023 and that was relevant to fashion too as so many big supermarkets are now major clothing retail sales. The rise followed a fall of 2.6% in July 2023 when supermarkets had specifically reported that the wet weather reduced clothing sales.
Non-food stores’ sales volumes grew by 0.6% this time, following a fall of 1.2% in July, again due to a change in the weather from July’s rain to August’s late sunshine.
Within non-food, clothing stores sales volumes rose by 2.3% in August, mostly recovering from their fall of 2.9% in July. This is likely to have been boosted by families buying for the back-to-school period, as well as those who felt the need to buy summer clothing due to the unexpected late heatwave during the month. Some enthusiastic shoppers could even have been investing in the new autumn collections that were starting to drop in-store, even though the weather outside was boiling.
There were also suggestions from analysts that Women’s World Cup fever had a part to play in the rise.
Meanwhile, sales volumes for department stores and other non-food stores both fell by 0.4%. retail sales suggested that consumers were still struggling with the increased cost of living and prices.
Non-store retail sales(predominantly online retailers) sales volumes fell by 1.3%, following a rise of 1.9% in July when the wet weather that had dented physical stores had helped them.
Analysts welcomed the sight rise overall but remained cautious. Samantha Philips, Partner at McKinsey & Co, told fashionetwork.com: “Looking ahead to the golden quarter, the next three months will be pivotal.
“Consumers are likely to spend cautiously with high winter energy bills in mind. And retail sales will need to stay in tune with the functional and emotional needs of their customers. It will be important to monitor where consumers are willing to make trade-offs and where they are willing to stretch their budgets and spend. Those that can use these insights to inform product availability, pricing and promotions will be better placed to capture a greater share of the customer’s wallet.”
Stuart Vevers is the kind of fashion insider who could be… inaccessible. A true industry veteran, Vevers, who recently marked 10 years at the helm of Coach, cut his teeth at Calvin Klein in New York after leaving his hometown of Yorkshire, England to study fashion design in London. What followed was tenures at some of the most sought-after labels, including Bottega Veneta, Mulberry, and Loewe, where he honed a mastery in accessories and a knack for creating creating fly-off-shelves It items, like the iconic Emmy bag from Mulberry that once hung nonstop from Kate Moss‘s supermodel arm.
And at Coach, where he has held the position of creative director since September 2013, Vevers has steered the classic American brand in new directions — and into new wardrobes — by expanding the legendary accessories label’s apparel offerings and authentically reaching increasingly younger generations. (This is no accident — read on to learn about Vevers’ respect for the “next” generation.)
So, you see, Vevers could be somewhat affected by his decades of acclaim. Instead, the man who joins me on Zoom on a 35-degree September day in New York is warm, fully engaged in the conversation and generous with his responses, not to mention his time (the runway presentation for Coach’s Spring 2024 collection was just a few hours later, on the eve of New York Fashion Week‘s official Spring 2024 calendar). We related almost immediately over the concept of crafting clothes for a club kid lifestyle (his at English clubs, my fiancé’s at Toronto raves) and I quickly understood some of the ingredients to Vever’s success: He’s kind. And humble. And deeply connected to both family and history — that of his upbringing (his father attended his first fashion show ever that evening); that of Coach (he speaks with reverence about the brand’s archives and its roots in New York City); and that of his own family (he took a bow at the end of Coach’s Spring 2024 show that evening with his toddler son in his arms).
It was poetic, then, that Vevers staged his 10-year anniversary collection presentation at the New York Public Library, where so many stories are housed. There, famous faces like Jennifer Lopez and Lil Nas X gathered with editors, buyers and tastemakers to watch the Spring 2024 show where leather bowling bags and mini totes shaped like ducks dangled off the arms of models of different genders and sizes.
The collection, full of signature oversized leather jackets, fresh knit dresses, elevated suiting and leather slips, and which didn’t include a single high heel, if memory serves, felt reflective of the next generation that Vevers fondly speaks of — cool, a little edgy and entirely uninterested in dusty old rules. At a dinner after the presentation, an emotional Vevers reflected on his decade at Coach and what keeps him loving his work after all these years: “Fashion should be about joy, about celebration and, to paraphrase my hero Keith Haring, it should be for everyone.”
Here, get to know Coach creative director Stuart Vevers a little better, plus take a peek at highlights from the designer’s 10-year anniversary presentation.
Where did your interest in fashion initially came from?
That’s a great question. My grandmother was an amateur costume designer and made costumes for the amateur dramatic shows in her town, and she would always dress me and my brother and cousins up to go see her shows. There was something there; it wasn’t exactly fashion but she was creative and always making things. And I adored her. So she was my first inspiration.
I grew up in a relatively small city in the U.K., far from [any kind of ] fashion capitals. My parents didn’t go to college, so I grew up in a traditional working class family environment and I wasn’t exposed to [fashion]. But I was tall from quite a young age, so I could get into nightclubs from about 15. I started dressing up and my grandmother, who was a wizard on the machine, would help me make some of my clubbing outfits. That’s when I started to look at magazines and books around style. But even at that point, I don’t think I ever dreamt I would become a designer.
I was always as a kid drawing, painting. So it wasn’t that long until I realized that [fashion’s] where I wanted to go. But in fact my father, who’s coming to his first fashion show tonight, when I first said I wanted to study fashion, he was horrified [laughs].
How do you stay energized and keep inspiration flowing when creating for a brand with a history like Coach?
I think where I am (New York) certainly helps. I really believe New York is the most creative city in the world. There’s so much creative energy, amazing style, characters, just walking down the street is inspiration. And I think also not being from the U.S., not being from New York, there’s something in that; I sometimes feel like I’m working on a movie set and it keeps me alert to how fortunate I am to be in this city that is so inspiring. And it just happens to have always been Coach’s home, where it started in 1941. So it’s a great place to be inspired by what’s happening today, but also what happened in the past.
Speaking of the past, how do you go about mining Coach’s history?
We have an amazing archive. And it’s full of real samples, and they’re arranged chronologically, so you have things from the ’40s, all the way up to today. We’ve got drawers and drawers of catalogues and editorial from over the decades. I’ll go down now and wander through and see if anything jumps out, and sometimes an individual piece will become the starting point for something. And sometimes I’ll reference it very directly. Or sometimes it might be a combination of colours, or it sparks a memory of something. It’s amazing to have that resource. But what’s great is you never know where it’s going to take you.
You’ve been the creative mind behind quite a lot of It bags. How does it feel to see those designs walking down the street on someone’s arm?
Oh, it’s one of the best things about what I do! When we were all in lockdown not so long ago, and I was kind of trying to figure out my place in the world and I was like, Why would anyone care about fashion right now when there’s so many bigger things happening in our lives?, it actually brought me back to what I love most about fashion. And I realized that actually, it brings joy and, at its best, it makes people happy. It makes them feel more confident walking into a room, it just gives them that spark when they leave the front door.
STYLE
Stuart Vevers on 10 Years With Coach and the Joy of Dressing
“Fashion should be about joy, about celebration and, to paraphrase my hero Keith Haring, it should be for everyone.”
By Jennifer Berry
Date September 14, 2023
Stuart Vevers is the kind of fashion insider who could be… inaccessible. A true industry veteran, Vevers, who recently marked 10 years at the helm of Coach, cut his teeth at Calvin Klein in New York after leaving his hometown of Yorkshire, England to study fashion design in London. What followed was tenures at some of the most sought-after labels, including Bottega Veneta, Mulberry, and Loewe, where he honed a mastery in accessories and a knack for creating creating fly-off-shelves It items, like the iconic Emmy bag from Mulberry that once hung nonstop from Kate Moss‘s supermodel arm.
And at Coach, where he has held the position of creative director since September 2013, Vevers has steered the classic American brand in new directions — and into new wardrobes — by expanding the legendary accessories label’s apparel offerings and authentically reaching increasingly younger generations. (This is no accident — read on to learn about Vevers’ respect for the “next” generation.)
So, you see, Vevers could be somewhat affected by his decades of acclaim. Instead, the man who joins me on Zoom on a 35-degree September day in New York is warm, fully engaged in the conversation and generous with his responses, not to mention his time (the runway presentation for Coach’s Spring 2024 collection was just a few hours later, on the eve of New York Fashion Week‘s official Spring 2024 calendar). We related almost immediately over the concept of crafting clothes for a club kid lifestyle (his at English clubs, my fiancé’s at Toronto raves) and I quickly understood some of the ingredients to Vever’s success: He’s kind. And humble. And deeply connected to both family and history — that of his upbringing (his father attended his first fashion show ever that evening); that of Coach (he speaks with reverence about the brand’s archives and its roots in New York City); and that of his own family (he took a bow at the end of Coach’s Spring 2024 show that evening with his toddler son in his arms).
It was poetic, then, that Vevers staged his 10-year anniversary collection presentation at the New York Public Library, where so many stories are housed. There, famous faces like Jennifer Lopez and Lil Nas X gathered with editors, buyers and tastemakers to watch the Spring 2024 show where leather bowling bags and mini totes shaped like ducks dangled off the arms of models of different genders and sizes.
The collection, full of signature oversized leather jackets, fresh knit dresses, elevated suiting and leather slips, and which didn’t include a single high heel, if memory serves, felt reflective of the next generation that Vevers fondly speaks of — cool, a little edgy and entirely uninterested in dusty old rules. At a dinner after the presentation, an emotional Vevers reflected on his decade at Coach and what keeps him loving his work after all these years: “Fashion should be about joy, about celebration and, to paraphrase my hero Keith Haring, it should be for everyone.”
Here, get to know Coach creative director Stuart Vevers a little better, plus take a peek at highlights from the designer’s 10-year anniversary presentation.
Where did your interest in fashion initially came from?
Read More
That’s a great question. My grandmother was an amateur costume designer and made costumes for the amateur dramatic shows in her town, and she would always dress me and my brother and cousins up to go see her shows. There was something there; it wasn’t exactly fashion but she was creative and always making things. And I adored her. So she was my first inspiration.
I grew up in a relatively small city in the U.K., far from [any kind of ] fashion capitals. My parents didn’t go to college, so I grew up in a traditional working class family environment and I wasn’t exposed to [fashion]. But I was tall from quite a young age, so I could get into nightclubs from about 15. I started dressing up and my grandmother, who was a wizard on the machine, would help me make some of my clubbing outfits. That’s when I started to look at magazines and books around style. But even at that point, I don’t think I ever dreamt I would become a designer.
I was always as a kid drawing, painting. So it wasn’t that long until I realized that [fashion’s] where I wanted to go. But in fact my father, who’s coming to his first fashion show tonight, when I first said I wanted to study fashion, he was horrified [laughs].
How do you stay energized and keep inspiration flowing when creating for a brand with a history like Coach?
I think where I am (New York) certainly helps. I really believe New York is the most creative city in the world. There’s so much creative energy, amazing style, characters, just walking down the street is inspiration. And I think also not being from the U.S., not being from New York, there’s something in that; I sometimes feel like I’m working on a movie set and it keeps me alert to how fortunate I am to be in this city that is so inspiring. And it just happens to have always been Coach’s home, where it started in 1941. So it’s a great place to be inspired by what’s happening today, but also what happened in the past.
Speaking of the past, how do you go about mining Coach’s history?
We have an amazing archive. And it’s full of real samples, and they’re arranged chronologically, so you have things from the ’40s, all the way up to today. We’ve got drawers and drawers of catalogues and editorial from over the decades. I’ll go down now and wander through and see if anything jumps out, and sometimes an individual piece will become the starting point for something. And sometimes I’ll reference it very directly. Or sometimes it might be a combination of colours, or it sparks a memory of something. It’s amazing to have that resource. But what’s great is you never know where it’s going to take you.
You’ve been the creative mind behind quite a lot of It bags. How does it feel to see those designs walking down the street on someone’s arm?
Oh, it’s one of the best things about what I do! When we were all in lockdown not so long ago, and I was kind of trying to figure out my place in the world and I was like, Why would anyone care about fashion right now when there’s so many bigger things happening in our lives?, it actually brought me back to what I love most about fashion. And I realized that actuallyS tuart Vevers, it brings joy and, at its best, it makes people happy. It makes them feel more confident walking into a room, it just gives them that spark when they leave the front door.
On TikTok, I see the Pillow Tabby on someone Gen Z; I remember buying my first Coach bag more than 20 years ago. How do you approach designing for multiple generations?
Honestly, I’m most inspired by the current generation and I have a fascination with youth culture, counterculture, pop culture, through history, but also very much today. I feel like the current generation, or sometimes we call it the “next generation,” really establish what’s going to come next. And I think all of us, whatever age we are, are very inspired by that.
Today’s generation is dramatically changing the way that I think about so many things, not just fashion. And sometimes it’s challenging because sometimes they are challenging things you’ve established that you feel comfortable with. But it’s really vital to listen and to think about what they’re saying. And I think we’re all, in fact, then influenced by that
The fashion industry is home to numerous iconic and influential brands that have made a significant impact on the global fashion landscape. Here’s a list of some of the top fashion brands in the world, known for their innovation, quality, and cultural influence:
- Louis Vuitton: Louis Vuitton is a luxury fashion brands renowned for its leather goods, including handbags, luggage, and accessories. It’s known for its monogram canvas pattern and has a long history of craftsmanship and prestige.
- Gucci: Gucci is an Italian fashion brands that’s synonymous with luxury and style. It offers a wide range of products, including clothing, handbags, shoes, and fragrances. Gucci is known for its bold designs and distinctive double-G logo.
- Chanel: Chanel, founded by Coco Chanel, is famous for its timeless elegance and classic designs. The brand is known for its iconic Chanel suits, little black dresses, and quilted handbags.
- Prada: Prada is an Italian luxury fashion house known for its avant-garde designs and high-quality materials. It offers clothing, accessories, and fragrances with a focus on minimalist aesthetics.
- Versace: Versace is an Italian luxury fashion brands known for its bold and colorful designs. It’s famous for its Medusa logo, which is a symbol of power and glamour.
- Hermès: Hermès is renowned for its high-end leather goods, including the iconic Birkin and Kelly bags. The brand is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and dedication to quality.
- Dior: Christian Dior, often referred to as Dior, is a French luxury fashion brands celebrated for its haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. It’s known for its elegant and feminine designs.
- Burberry: Burberry is a British luxury brand known for its distinctive check pattern and trench coats. It offers a wide range of clothing, accessories, and fragrances.
- Ralph Lauren: Ralph Lauren is an American fashion brands known for its preppy and classic style. It encompasses various lines, including Polo Ralph Lauren and Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
- Balenciaga: Balenciaga is a French luxury brand that’s gained popularity for its innovative and unconventional designs, including oversized silhouettes and bold logos.
- Yves Saint Laurent (YSL): YSL is a French fashion house known for its modern and edgy designs. It’s credited with popularizing the tuxedo jacket for women.
- Off-White: Off-White is an Italian streetwear brand founded by Virgil Abloh. It’s known for its urban-inspired designs and distinctive use of quotation marks in its branding.
- Fendi: Fendi is an Italian luxury brand celebrated for its fur and leather products, as well as its iconic Baguette bag.
- Givenchy: Givenchy is a French fashion house known for its chic and sophisticated style. It’s famous for dressing celebrities and royalty.
- Valentino: Valentino is an Italian fashion brands known for its romantic and luxurious designs, including red-carpet gowns and Rockstud accessories.
These fashion brands have left a lasting mark on the industry and continue to shape global fashion brands. They cater to a diverse range of styles and preferences, making them influential and admired by fashion brands enthusiasts around the world.
-
Beauty5 months agoGlossy or matte? Two very different makeup styles
-
Fashion9 months agoWhat Aurélie Bidermann Packs in Her Suitcase for Thanksgiving
-
Fashion2 years agoBig Data and Artificial Intelligence applications in the fashion industry
-
Fashion9 months agoThese Stretchy Jeans are a Celeb Go-To for Traveling
-
Fashion9 months agoThese Topshop Items Are Guaranteed to Sell Out This Week
-
Entertainment9 months agoThe 20 Most Popular Nigella Lawson Recipes on Cooking
-
Fashion9 months agoThe 8 Best Subscription Boxes for Guys Spread Magic Cocktail Tea
-
Uncategorized2 years ago
Where to experience the Dutch Golden Age in Amsterdam